BREEDING TIPS

 

     Hi all :) We know that a lot of young breeders are looking for tips, and there is not much about it in the Internet. After many years of breeding we collected a lot of information on how to  make your life as a breeder that tiny bit easier. The biggest difficulty usually is with the first pregnancy and the delivery of kittens. We hope that you will find something that will help you. If you want to use any of this tips on your sire, please let me now about it, and link back to this page.

 

We will start with getting ready for delivery.

     It is important to prepare the place for delivery and kittens in advance, so that the cat will feel well there and confident. For this purpose you can use clean cardboard box, for example a TV box. The size of the box should allow the cat move freely in it, and to fit there comfortably with newborn kittens (it should be approx. 60cmх60cmх60cm).

      In one side of the box, 10-12 cm from the floor, you should cut a hole that the cat would use to enter and leave the box. From above, this box should be covered with an easily removable cover, or covered by a cloth, that it would be easy for you to look after kittens. The best is to place "kitten’s house" in a silent, darkish, warm and dry place. A cold dampness or a draft are the biggest dangers of death for newborn kittens.

     The bottom of the box is covered in cloth. This should be kept very clean!

     Cats should give birth at home, because there they feel AT HOME (happy and confident). They become very nervous with strangers and in unfamiliar conditions that can lead to a delay or even a suspension of delivery.      

     During delivery and in the first week of the kittens’ life the temperature in "kitten’s house" should be near 27-29°С, then, gradually, it can be a little lowered. If in a room where the cat gives birth, the temperature cannot be kept warm enough, then you can use additional heating (a heat pad or a fan heater).

     It is very important to have all necessary things ready in advance. I will give a list that I think has all the important stuff.

Ø      Napkins (cloth) in size approximately 30x30 cm, or bigger. The fabric should be soft and absorb moisture well.

Ø      Scissors with rounded ends.

Ø      A disinfectant solution for hands (e.g. surgical spirit or vodka).

Ø      Iodine or Sterilon (for cauterization of the umbilical cord).

Ø      Small Rubber bulb like you use for clearing a baby’s blocked nose - for sucking the slimy fluid from the nose of a kitten. Be very careful when using it because you can easily damage the nasal passage of the kitten.  

Ø      Oxytocin (if you can get it from your vet, and if you are absolutely sure that you know how and when to use it) in injection (for stimulation of contractions and clearing letftovers from the womb after all kittens are delivered). You inject 0.2 ml (or 0.4 for big cats, over 5 kg) with an interval of 20-25 minutes after the second - the third kitten. NEVER inject Oxytocin if no kitten is born, you will just “burst the womb” and maybe kill your cat and kittens. Be very careful, the overdose of Oxytocin is dangerous to your cat! One 1ml ampoule – corresponds to 5 injections, that’s the absolute maximum we could condone using without help from a Vet. If in doubt about this, consult your Vet as this is an area where there is no room for errors.

Ø      A solution of calcium in case of eclampsia.

Ø      Disposable syringes.

Ø      Vaseline or oil.

Ø      A thread (cotton or silk), some people use dental floss, for tying the umbilical cords.

Ø      Small box with a hot-water bottle or a heat pad (for already born kittens, that they would not get cold, while you are delivering the others)

Ø      A hair drier for drying the kittens in a cold season.

Ø      Phone numbers of vets and more experienced breeders (mostly for first time deliveries). 

     A few days prior to the due day call your vet, warn him about forthcoming event J and find out if it is possible to call him in case of emergency.

     As all cat delivery’s and their symptoms are individual, these tips can help prepare for the most frequent cases.  This is not intended as a definitive guide, we merely hope that some of the information will be helpful to some breeders.

 

Getting close

     Usually about two weeks before the due day the kittens begin to move, approximately then cats start to search for a place. One week prior to the earliest due date her behaviour becomes even more restless, she is cleaning herself very often, especially around the stomach and genitals, looking for a place, she turns all your clothes upside down!! Most of the cats can become very tender and look for a lot of attention from the owner. It’s quite usual that the cat will refuse food. She may go to the toilet more frequently.

     During this period it is necessary to show your cat the house you prepared for her delivery. If the cat already gave birth in it, usually she goes there with pleasure. If your cat decides to give birth in any other place, let her and move her with kittens in the box you prepared for them, after all kittens are born.

 

First signs

     In the last days of pregnancy some fluctuations of temperature are possible. For 2-3 days rectal temperature can decrease down to 37°С, but with start of delivery it quickly rises up to an initial level around 38.4°С. A day before or on the day of delivery her nipples get very full, some milk would come out when pressing around the nipple.

     From this moment you should not leave your cat alone. It is necessary to watch closely for discharge from the vagina of the cat and have a look for damp spots in her bedding. Some cats will let you know when it is time: they will mew a lot, look disturbedly at their abdomen, some of the cats might try to hide. However, it also happens that some cats don’t show any signs, and keep sleeping J even with the kittens on the way J

 

 Delivery and your help

     Your cat is afraid, she could be sore, and scared, she hopes that you will help her. You cannot disappoint her!! 

      There are three stages of delivery: - in the first period there is an opening of the “neck” of womb and opening of the patrimonial channel; - in the second stage - kittens are born; - in the third – placenta is released from the womb

     Cat has a bicorn shaped uterus. Where the two horns join up, it goes into the channel of the uterus, which through the “neck” of uterus goes in to the vagina, and it, through to the vulva. The embryos are protected within a “sac” and fixed to the wall of the uterus by a placenta.   

 
The first stage

  

     The first stage of delivery can last from 12 to 24 hours. In the first hours it can be imperceptible. It all begins with chaotic contractions of the womb, her breath becomes faster, the cat would be purring with each contraction. 

     First contractions are few and weak; the pain is not strong yet. A few hours prior to contractions the vagina swells up a little, there would be some noticeable discharge, transparent, yellowish or a bit bloody colours.

     The cat will look disturbed, licks her vulva, pushes, and loudly purring, trying to move the bedding under her. The horns of the uterus are contracted serially, pushing kittens into the uterus.    

     Slowly the contractions will become more frequent, their duration increases, and the pain amplifies. During the contraction the kitten is forced to the way out. A cat delivering for the first time can be extremely frightened, she might cry and look for help from you. Constantly talk to and pet her.    

  

The second stage

 

     Usually at this stage the contractions are the most strong. The water bag, surrounding the kitten breaks, and there will be discharge of liquid of a straw colour. This water lubricates, making it easier for kitten to come out. At last a part of the kitten (a paw, a head, a tail) shows up, appearing, disappearing again.

     Usually, during this moment the cat has a small rest before a birth of a kitten. In classical cases the cat does two strong attempts and pushes a kitten, connected by a umbilical cord to the placenta. The kitten can be born with the sac, or without it. About 70 % of kittens are born in the position of a "diver" – front paws and nose forward.

     Usually the cat will clean the kitten herself, intensively licking the face of the kitten, cleaning its’ nose, mouth and body, stimulating his breathing and blood circulation. The kitten makes a sharp breath, the lungs open up, and it starts to breathe.  

     Sometimes it looks like the cat is being too rough, but actually, she stimulates the breathing and blood circulation of the kitten. Usually, after the birth of a kitten, the cat has a rest, then the contractions will start again.    

     The majority of cats will deliver kittens with intervals from 15 minutes up to an hour. Two or three kittens can be born one after another, the rest can be expected within 3-4 hours, and sometimes even longer. If the mother is too tired, she might neglect to clean the kitten, then you need to open the sac and clean the kitten for her, and you need to do that very quickly, or the kitten will choke (see later how you can help your cat).   

 

 

The third stage

     In the third stage the placenta will be released, usually a few minutes after the birth of each kitten.  

     Your cat will try to eat some or all of the placentas. This is instinctive behaviour as the placenta is full of nutrients. However, eating too many placentas might give your cat diarrhoea. You should limit the quantity of placentas you allow her to eat to one or two.

     Cats would chew off the umbilical cord, but because she might do it too close to the kittens tummy, it is better if you do that for her. It is best to use scissors that are not sharp, kind of pinching the chord off rather than cutting, or it might start bleeding. 

     Having cut the chord, it is necessary to squeeze the blood in umbilical cord out, away from the kitten, 2-3 cm from kitten, then tie it up with a thread and drop some iodine (or Sterilon) or any other suitable antiseptic on the cut chord. It is very important not to pull the umbilical chord too hard, or it might provoke a hernia.    

     As soon as the kitten is cleaned up, you should give it to the cat to drink some milk. The sucking action of the kittens stimulates further contractions and secretion of milk, containing all the necessary antibodies.      

     Sometimes delivery can stop. The cat calms down and looks after the kittens. Then, in 12-24 hours, delivery can start again, and the cat gives birth to the remainder of the kittens. That is not the case for Persian cats, because they don’t normally have big litters.

     All cases are individual, and if you have any doubts, call your vet. It is very difficult to define the line between normal and abnormal delivery, even for an experienced breeder.  

     Sometimes a cat who already had 3-4 litters without any problems, at the next one can have some complications. Conversely, a cat who had to have a c-section the last time, will have perfect and easy delivery with her next litter.

 

Difficult Delivery

     Cats can delay delivery for up to 24 hours. That’s why you should try to keep your cat away from any noise, commotion, strangers and other irritating factors, because they can can easily cause a delay to the delivery time.    

     Another possible cause of delay in the delivery can be mechanical factor, such as physical blockage, when the size of a kitten exceeds the sizes of the birth canal, and weak patrimonial activity when contractions are not strong enough to push out a kitten. Both of them can lead to a difficult delivery. 

     Difficult delivery is rare in cases where the cat is living in good conditions. Often, the postponing of delivery happens with small litters, because the size of kittens is much bigger.    

 

Physical blockage.

     There are two factors: the wrong position of a kitten or an unusually large kitten.

     When the kitten goes back paws and a tail forward it usually causes difficulties at the birth of the first kitten. The same result can be when the head of a kitten is turned forward or sideways.    

 

Weak patrimonial activity (weak contractions)

     Weak contractions are a frequent reason of inefficient delivery. Mechanical factors can lead to excessive expansion and stretching of a uterus that reduces the power or strength of the contractions.

     In some cases the weakness of the contractions can be caused by insufficiency of Oxytocin or calcium (or both). In this case the contractions will get stronger with injection of Oxytocin..    

     In other cases weak contractions can be caused by calcium deficiency. Both during pregnancy, and during the postnatal period, plenty of calcium circulating in the bloodstream is necessary for the cat for building bodies of the kittens, and for the development of milk.

     When the cat does not get enough calcium during pregnancy, it can lead to washing calcium away from the bones. In this situation there may be an insufficiency of ions of calcium, that are necessary for proper functioning of the cat’s body, and as result – slow or even no contractions. In this case stimulation with Oxytocin is useless, and will give no reaction.

     Calcium deficiency is especially frequent in big litters. In this case, the cat can easily give birth to the first kitten, and then doze for up to 3-4 hours or have rare and weak contractions.  

 

Help that you can give to your cat:

     Inside muscle injection (deep) – 1 ml of 10% Calcium Gluconate – 2 – 3 injections during delivery with an interval of 2-3 hours.

     Attention: Calcium Gluconate can bring very strong harsh contractions, that should bring to quickly born kitten, but that is good only when the kitten is in the normal correct position.

     During delivery that involves wrong position of the kitten(s) or big kitten(s) you should not use Calcium Gluconate or any other stimulating injections, because it can lead to a breakage of uterus.  

     Along with giving calcium you can use Oxytocin in the usual doses, but with an interval of 30 minutes after the Calcium Gluconate  injection. Sometimes there can be small problems. Though they happen quite rare, it is necessary to know about them. Even after no kittens are left, if you use Calcium Glaconate and Oxytocin, there can be continuous contractions for some time (sometimes a few hours). Normally it would be no more contractions after the last kitten and placenta.

     With eclampsia the injection of calcium should be recommended by the vet, but in each case the dose is individual. An average dose of deep intramuscular injection is 1ml of 10 % Calcium Glaconate every 40 minutes until signs of eclampsia disappear. You will need to give your cat supporting dose of 1 ml 2 times a day in next 7-10 days, and further calcium should be given to her until she will finish feeding the kittens.

     If the delivery is over 12 hours and no kitten is palpated, it is necessary to make an ultrasound or an X-ray to find the position and the sizes of kittens.     

 

 

     When the delivery goes normally, it is better not to interfere, as most of the cats instinctively know what to do. But pay attention! A large kitten can get stuck in the womb. Sometimes the head of a kitten can appear, and then when the cat relaxes, disappear again. If that happens, you should lubricate the ways with sterile Vaseline or baby oil.

     After the head of a kitten is born, try to grab the scruff of the neck of the kitten and slowly pull the kitten out. You can do that ONLY by holding the kitten by the scruff of his neck, not by the head and not by the paws, because this could lead to damage of the joints. Some breeders prefer to pull the kitten by rotating him a little – clock wise and then counter-clock wise. Whichever approach you use, be sure to use plenty of lubricant around the head.

     It happens that the cat can give birth to the kittens, but does not look after them. To be honest most Persians are like that J The owner then should do that for the cat. Hands should be sterilized.    

 

     1. If the kitten was born in a sac (bubble), it is necessary to open it within 30 seconds, and clean the nose and mouth from slime. You can do that with a soft napkin and small rubber bulb, some experienced breeders do that by sucking away the slime (the pressure you use should be very light).

     If the kitten is making small squeaky sounds from the lungs when breathing, some water probably went in to his lungs, and you need to clean them. Put the kitten on your left palm, and cover with you right palm, place your legs wide apart and shake the kitten down (not too strong, or kitten will fall down) from top to Пуповину обрезают следующим образом...down. Then vigorously but carefully clean the kitten with a soft towel.    

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

     You can cut the umbilical cord as follows: you put the kitten on his back or sideways and with two fingers push the blood in the umbilical cord in the direction of the stomach. Then in a distance of about 2-3 cm from the stomach of the kitten press the umbilical cord with your nails. Then you tie up the umbilical cord with a sterile, silk string or dental floss (to stop it from bleeding), then cut it off with sterile, not so sharp scissors on a piece which is closer to the placenta. After that you should put iodine on the cut chord. Now you can give the kitten to the mother that she will look after him. 

    

     2. If the cat does not want to lick the kitten, take a damp piece of cloth and massage his abdomen and genitals of the kitten to make him defacate/urinate. After that, dry him with hair drier and then give him to mother or put him on a hot-water bottle (or heat pad). 

 

     3. Is it possible to give the kitten to the mother straight away? If the cat does not behave aggressively to the kitten then it’s ok. You should put the kitten away during the next contractions, that the cat, turning around from the pain, would not lie on them. At the end of the delivery you (or your vet) should check, that all kittens and placentas were born.  To do it yourself, you stand your cat up and push with your left and right fingers (usually using two on each hand) through the cats tummy, just under the rib cage. If there are no kittens or placentas left your fingers should meet in the middle.

 

 

Rescue of the kitten

     During a difficult delivery the kitten can be very weak, he might have his tongue out, and he can look thin and flat, and at first sight you might think, that he is dead. But, don’t give up, if you try hard, you might save him.    

     First you need clear his mouth and nose, then lightly massage the kitten. If it does not help, carefully give him to smell salts of ammonia (smelling salts) on a cotton wool stick. There would be reason to continue attempting reanimation if the kitten responds in any way (for example he will shake his head a bit or squeak etc.).    

     Carefully squeeze his chest from the sides, then from the front and back. If it still does not breathe, try artificial breath - a mouth to the mouth and nostrils. The exhalation is made until you feel the chest expands a bit. Do not force hard, it can lead to breakage of lungs. You can continue for a few min or until independent breath commences.    

     Don’t consider the kitten dead until you try to recover him, even for 10 minutes. If kittens are born too fast, with short enough intervals in-between, you probably can give up on one to give your attention to more viable kittens.   

 

 When it is necessary to call you vet 

     It is better to call your vet on a false alarm, than to stay without the help in a difficult situation. It is better to make a mistake or ask “silly” question, than to miss the moment for necessary help or even necessary surgical attention.    

 

     Help is required in the following situations:

1) The cat has strong contractions, but she cannot deliver any kitten within an hour;

2) The kitten has partly came out, but cannot fully pass (even with your help) within 10 minutes;

3) There is a bleeding (a few teaspoons) during or after the contractions, for longer than 10 minutes; 

4) Sudden apathy or weakness of the cat with temperature above 40°С or below 36,1°С (that might be a possible infection);

5) When the interval between the kittens is more than three hours and she is still having contractions, you need the emergency help of a vet. 

     The discharge of yellow liquid can be breakage of  the sac surrounding the kitten. If it happens the kitten should be born in the next 30 minutes.

 

C-Section

     C-section might be necessary if any help to produce a kitten did not give any effect. The final decision is up to the vet. It is necessary to consider the condition of the cat, duration of contractions etc. Usually the vet will suggest an ultrasound or x-ray, or both.

     C-section can be carried out in a veterinary clinic or in your house under general anesthetic. The risk for a young, healthy cat is usually very small. However it considerably increases, if delivery is very long, there are signs of toxification etc.    

     Usually the cat will feel well very soon after the surgery and can feed kittens at home about three hours thereafter.

     The next litter, usually, goes fine, only in rare cases it might be necessary to go for a c-section again.

     Usually it depends on what the reason for the previous operationwas. During the first week you should monitor her temperature (at least, once a day. If the temperature is 39,4°С or above this shows that there may be some complications.   

 

 

 

MORE COMING SOON!

 

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